Bird Watching In Jamaica
By Estelle Elliott

Not everyone goes to Jamaica for the beaches and golf courses. Many now go for the flora and fauna this lush tropical island possesses as well as the peace and solitude one can find in the hills. Jamaica is blessed with over 200 species of birds (about 30 are considered endemic to the island) and 50 or more are migrating visitors. The best time of the year is December through the end of May, during this time many of the resident birds are beginning nest building and territorial singing. Northern birds following the Mississippi and Atlantic fly-way either stay and spend the winter in Jamaica or the other islands in the West Indies and Caribbean stopping briefly on their journey South. Many birds common in North America are also considered common in Jamaica and during the winter migration their numbers grow. Jamaica an ideal place for any "birder" to add new birds to their life lists.

The most popular bird for any tourist to spot is the Jamaican national bird known as the Doctor Bird. Its idealised picture is found on many things Jamaican including the tail logo of Air Jamaica, the national airline of Jamaica."Doctor Bird" is the local name for the "Streamertail" hummingbird. There are actually 2 species of Streamertail. The one most commonly seen in the Western Parishes is the Red Billed Streamertail

and the less common resident of the Eastern Parishes is the Black-Billed Streamertail. Jamaica has 4 different hummingbirds, the Red & Black Billed hummers, the larger black/bronze Mango hummer with it's slightly curved bill and one of the smallest hummingbirds in the world the Vervain. They can easily be mistaken for a bee until you take a closer look and see that it is in fact a very small bird, only 2" in length!

Finding hummingbirds is quite easy. Many of the resorts in the Negril area are blessed with lush tropical foliage with lots of flowers and flowers are what a hummingbird loves best. Hibiscus and bougainvillea are used most often along property lines. One of the most beautiful of all the flowering plants is the "orchid tree" when they are covered with their large orchid like flowers, you'll find hummingbirds. During the late winter months when courting is going on, you can hear them before you actually see them. They make a sharp "chip, chip, chip" sound. Follow your ears and eventually you'll see the bird. The female Streamertail does not have the long tail feathers, but you'll know that she is a Streamertail by her green coloured back and white breast. If it's breeding season, there will be a male close by. Like hummingbirds everywhere, they are aggressive and territorial so early spring/winter is a good time to listen and watch for them.

Birdwatching is so easy in Jamaica, you barely have to leave your lounge chair on the beach. From that lazy vantage point, you can spot the Magnificent Frigate Bird floating high above, looking for all the world like something from Jurassic Park. During the winter months you'll see small flocks of Ruddy Turnstones scurrying

along the waters' edge, turning over shells and stones looking for goodies to eat. These little guys walk and fly as a group so even at a distance, they are easy to determine. You will occasionally notice an egret, or heron flying by with it's long legs stretched out behind or the Brown Pelican flying by looking down for a quick snack and occasionally diving right into the sea and popping up with a fish. Pelicans have no fear of people and I personally have witnessed them dive right into the water next to me to catch a fish. Up in the cliff area Belted Kingfishers can be found launching from their waterside roosts with their "klee, klee, klee" sound in search of fish. Being relatively shy, they like to roost under the eaves of buildings and shacks that are right on the water edge. Found almost everywhere is the ubiquitous Banana Quit, a small black and yellow bird and very vocal bird. You'll find them in the coconut palms, banana trees, and Bougainvillea, but look for them in the Hibiscus bushes, they like to get the nectar from behind the flower, poking a hole into it before it even opens! That's why you'll notice many of the Hibiscus flowers have holes in them!!

Along the beach not far from the restaurants or dining areas, you'll notice a large shinny black bird with a long tail. The Antillean Grackle known locally as the "Kling, Kling" bird lives up to his name when he starts making his "kling, kling" call. They love handouts and scraps of food and are not very shy especially when they are looking for a snack.

Most people associate parrots with the tropics and indeed, Jamaica has parrots, unfortunately their numbers are dwindling due to poaching for the pet trade and ganja farmers killing them off. It seems that parrots LOVE ganja seeds and will tear apart the bud of the plant to get at the seeds which make the crop much harder to sell!! Many of the ganja farmers have devised a way to keep the parrots away from their crops by tying a piece of meat to a stake in the ground, which attracts Turkey Vultures. The Vultures circle lazily above the field which, in theory, scares the parrots away. I don't know if this works, but I sure hope so because it's better than rather than killing them. You can hear parrots flying over head, squawking loudly and perching high in the trees. Their green colour matches so well, you will find it difficult to see them unless they have landed in a snag or bare branch.

These are just some of the birds you can see without making any kind of effort (after all you're on vacation).

While you don't really have to go anywhere to see birds, the "dyed in the wool" birder will want to know a few places for locating the best, the hardest or the rarest to add to their life lists. Here are a few suggestions:

COCKPIT COUNTRY:

This trip will require a four wheel drive vehicle, a box lunch and a good guide to show you the way. Cockpit country is remote with very few people around. It is a great place to see birds. This is a "leave at dawn" trip where road maps and a driver who's familiar with Jamaica's back roads are necessities. The best place in the Cockpit is a little region known as Barbecue Bottom, located mid-way between Albert Town and Clark's Town in the Parish of Trelawney.

BLACK RIVER:

A popular tourist site, but nonetheless a great place for observing water birds and waders. You'll see egrets, herons, ducks, etc. while you cruise up river on a boat. You'll also get to see alligators!

SOUTH NEGRIL RIVER:

This trip has not caught on yet with the tourists and thankfully so because the river is so shallow at the mouth, only a few boats are able to navigate it. One boat I recommend is "Children's Bread" which is usually docked on the South end of Negril Beach by the Traveller's Beach Resort. Just ask one of the crew, they will be happy to make arrangements for you. The Negril River cuts into the "Great Morass" a fantastic wetland that is thankfully being preserved both for its natural beauty and for its functionality of keeping the town of Negril from flooding during big storms and acting as a filter to keep the water clean. Here you will find herons, egrets, ducks, rails, black necked stilts, cuckoos, hawks, and vultures, just to name a few. If you take this trip in the late afternoon with plans to return during sunset, stop and visit the "bird tree" which is located near the bridge. It is a popular nesting site for hundreds of herons, egrets etc.

ROYAL PALM RESERVE

This incredibly beautiful wetland forest is now being protected and used for educational purposes. The boardwalk that passes through the reserve enables you to view many different birds, plants and trees and insects. The reserve is home to the Morass Royal Palm or Swamp Cabbage Palm and are found nowhere else in the world. The proceeds are used by the Negril Area Environmental Protection Trust (a non-profit organization) for conservation and sustainable community development. The facilities include a cafe and bar and small museum where you can learn more about the native plants and animals. There is a 40 foot observation tower which gives you a birds eye view of the morass. Amazingly, the mosquito population is not as high as you might think. After 1 1/2 hrs walking through the wetland I came out with only one mosquito bite and I had forgotten to apply bug repellent prior to taking this tour! Here is their website link for more information.

ROCKLANDS FEEDING STATION:

Here is a tourist site that will delight all the members in your family, even the ones not as enthusiastic about birds as you. Rocklands is best known for hummingbirds that feed right out of your hand. So if you want a real up close experience with Jamaica's national bird, check out this tour. If you go early enough in the day, you can also take a guided tour on their nature trail where you can see all kinds of birds both visiting and endemic. This is a good trip for both the beginning and the experienced birder. It is located on the North coast, not far from Montego Bay in the town of Anchovy.

BLUE MOUNTAIN:

This is also where you have the best chance of seeing the "Black Billed Streamertail" hummingbird. This trip must be planned in advance and will require a 4 wheel drive vehicle and a good guide. Plan to stay overnight, this is a long trip. There are a few small inns and B&B type places near the mountain. One really special place to stay if Strawberry Hill.

Check with your travel agent or the Jamaica Tourist Board for info on guides and places to stay at Blue Mountain. Sunrise on the summit is a must see. This is a trip for the hearty and strong. While you can drive most of the way by 4 wheel drive vehicle, the rest of the way is a hike. Sturdy shoes, a light jacket or sweater and plenty of sun screen are necessary for this trip.

MANDEVILLE:

This town is located in the Parish of Manchester, a few hours drive from Savanna Lamar and Negril you can also get there by air. Mandeville is unique, has it's own personality and is considered a garden town. They have a botanical garden for tourists to visit and plenty of birds in that garden. The climate is more humid and therefore it can be cooler or hotter depending on the time of the year so prepare accordingly. There are two hotels in Mandeville if you wish to make this a 2 day trip and they can be booked beforehand or after you arrive in town.

WALKING NEGRIL:

Many tourists love to walk in Negril, especially along the beach where you'll see Ruddy Turnstones, Magnificent Frigate Birds, Herons, Egrets, Antillean Grackles, Banana Quits, Hummingbirds, Brown Pelicans, Belted Kingfishers, Owls, Parrots, Royal Terns and more. The best time for walking is in the early morning when the fishing boats are pulling in with their catch and the tourists are still in bed or having breakfast.

RED GROUND AREA:

In the cliff area known as the "West End" of Negril you will find a section known as Red Ground. One of the best walks I've discovered starts along the West End Road. A good starting place would be the Negril Yacht Club or the Silver Star Cafe for a hearty breakfast and then head Southwest on the West End Road to Westland Mountain Road (Mr Slice Pizza shop is located on the corner). Follow the road all the way to the top of the hill (not really so bad when you are stopping all the time to look at birds), at the top you will notice some water towers on your left, walk towards the water towers and you'll find a dirt road, follow it as it turns left through some small farms. You will get great views of Negril and find lots of different birds up here, like the Jamaican Woodpecker, American Kestrels, Smooth billed Ani, Turkey Vultures,

Grass Quits, Grasshopper Sparrows, and more. Follow this dirt road all the way to a crossing paved road. This road is Hermitage Road, turn left and follow it through a residential area (good for hummers, banana quits, doves) until you come to a large church on your right and the West End Road once again. Turn left and you'll be heading back to your starting point. This hike is roughly 3 miles and is fairly easy. It is also a great way to meet the locals so plan on stopping for a spell to chat and talk about what you're doing. You'll be pleasantly surprised at just how much they know about their birds and will be happy to tell you some of the local folk lore about them as well as the names they use for them. This is one of my favorite bird watching haunts.

SHEFFIELD ROAD:

Here is another walk where you can meet people as well as new birds along the way. The Road travels along the back side of the Morass all the way to the town of Logwood which is where the water supply for Negril starts. On your left you have the flat morass and Royal Palm Reserve and on the right steep cliffs and bush of Fish Hills. You will find yourself looking back and forth quite a bit as the road divides two different climes. It is several miles to Logwood so if you plan to do the whole hike, plan to have someone meet you there in a car, or rent a bicycle and drive it yourself stopping along the way for observations. Along this road you will find Jamaican Orioles, Orange quits, Jamaican Woodpeckers, White Crowned Pigeons, King Birds, Stripe Headed Tanagers and more. Early morning is best.

NEGRIL LIGHTHOUSE AND BEYOND:

I find sitting on the cliff by the lighthouse both relaxing and rewarding. Not only do you see birds, but you can also spot pods of dolphins. Plan to take a picnic lunch with you and spend the day. Visit the historic lighthouse. Take snorkel gear along too. If you have a car or bicycle, you can also drive past the lighthouse and head towards Hogg Heaven and beyond. This land is all owned by Mr. Hogg and there is house construction going on. there is lots of open space and habitat for birds. One point of interest is the wild cotton growing in the fields.

YS FALLS & MAYFIELD FALLS:

These are both beautiful tourists destinations and while they tend to be somewhat crowded during high season, they too have a great variety of birds simply because of the water and the flowering foliage. Hummers, woodpeckers, Banana Quits etc. can be found quite easily. Around the cattle pastures at YS Falls, look for Smooth Billed Ani.

FINDING YOUR OWN FAVORITE BIRDING PLACE:

Go exploring and find your own personal bird paradise. Always remember to be cautious, and respectful of private property. Just ask the owner if you can walk on their land, in most cases they will say yes, some may charge you a small fee. They may be help help you find a particular bird.

REFERENCE BOOKS & FIELD GUIDES:

North American field guides are essential especially if you are going to Jamaica in the winter. Many North American birds can be found wintering there just like you! I recommend the Peterson's Birds of North America, and the Stokes Field Guide (Eastern Region). For endemic birds of Jamaica I carry the Peterson field guide "Birds of the West Indies" by James Bond (yes, James Bond), "Birds of Jamaica - A photographic Field Guide" by Audrey Downer and Robert Sutton (this book is currently out of print, but it can still be found in some of the gift shops in Negril). "A Guide To The Birds Of The West Indies", (Princeton Press) has excellent information on each bird, color plates of the endemic birds for each island and much more. If you want to familiarize yourself with Jamaican bird songs, Cornell University now offers a 2 CD set titled "Bird Songs in Jamaica" by George B. Reynard and Robert L. Sutton. The CD set can be purchased on the American Birding Association site. (link below)

LINKS ON THE INTERNET OF INTEREST:

http://www.nestbox.com/jan97.htm

http://www.negriltoday.com

http://amazilia.net/images/Travel/caribbean.htm

http://www.americanbirding.org/

So pack your sun screen, bird books, sturdy walking shoes and your binoculars and come see the birds and beauty of Jamaica!